A paper pattern review for the The ultimate trousers by Sew Over it
Body shape and sizing
Everyone’s body shape is different, so I don’t believe there is a standard size. I spent many years making toiles for made to measure Brides, these gowns used to fit like a glove, no one pattern was the same and it is important to remember that every body shape is different. We all have different genetic and cultural traits. Even if everyone started eating the same things and did the same amount of exercise for a whole year, we would not all look the same at the end of the year. This is because each person’s genetic inheritance influences their bone structure, body size, shape, and weight differently. Both my parents were tall and my father broad.
Swimming has always been a part of my life, especially in my childhood, I did find this harder to keep up when I worked full-time and started a family. I started to put on weight in my 40’s. I recognised quickly that I had to make some life style changes. My son is 7 years old now and I create my own working hours, rather than working 12 hour days as a teacher. When you get older your life changes and your metabolism slows down. I now make it part of my life style to exercise. I don’t go to the gym, I just use an app and a yoga mat at home, to work out most days and I sign up to a swimming challenge every year to motivate me to swim 2-3 times a week. Last year I started swimming outside, wearing a wetsuit at a local Lido pool and I have regained the passion for swimming. I also changed my diet, giving up bread 6 months ago and cutting out snack food. With these changes I lost weight and now enjoy buying and making clothes again. Keeping in shape is not as easy as it was back in my 20’s to 30’s, but I feel so much happier in my body shape now. I still find buying trousers really hard though, I can’t wear trousers with side pockets and find I have to buy bigger, as they don’t normally fit on the hips. I used to be a 10-12 in my younger years, but in my 40’s I am more like a 12-14, depending where I shop.
I made a pair of trousers from another pattern company recently and the shape was so bad, they were bagging around the crutch, loose around the waist and tight on the hip, all wrong basically, so I continued my search for the perfect fitting trouser.
The Ultimate trouser pattern
I decided to toile them first and I am glad I did. I cut out a size bigger, but still had to add a little extra to the hips. when I bought the pattern the lady advised me to make a size bigger, so as to get the perfect fit. I also lengthened them. The fit now is near on perfect. The shape is also lovely, they are really slimming and so comfortable to wear. My search is over!
The pattern suggests putting the zip in after the leg side seam sewn. I didn’t do this. I find this leaves potential puckering below the zip. So I sew my zips in first, then finish the left seam, hence no puckering. I found this so easy and quick to make, as a result I made 2 pairs in little to no time. The pattern was clear and easy to follow.
I used a floral printed cotton sateen, which has a little stretch and another pair in some soft denim. The floral fabric makes them real ‘statement trousers. I can wear them with heels and a blue top, or I can pick out one of the colours in the print. I think a red top with a blue cardigan would also be nice.
The denim pair I made with a stripe down the side, I made my own bias binding, using some Liberty cotton and a binding maker. I have wanted some trousers with a stripe down them for ages. I see them in fashion magazines lots. I would like to make a black pair next, or a pinstripe pair maybe. You could make them in a stretch fabric and then make them slightly tighter.
Packaging and instructions.
The illustrations on the cover are very stylish and give a vintage look. They use the pale purple brand colour which makes it very recognisable Sew Over It. I did have to tape the pattern cover back together when I placed the pattern back in, as it doesn’t stay closed. The instructions are in the form of a A5 booklet. This includes tips, a glossary, pattern layout and then step by step written and illustrated instructions. The drawings are large and well drawn. I like how they show the over locking. The zip part just shows the first stage, then describes how. More drawings might be helpful here.
This is the second pattern I have made from Sew Over It and I think they really have got some great shapes, they are on trend and fashionable. I want to make more and definitely stock them on my site
These were so easy to make and fit so well. A great pattern. I highly recommend to any level.