Pattern review: The Linden Sweatshirt Grain line studio
I have been looking for a simple sweatshirt pattern for a while and this shape is perfect. I want to make sweatshirts with different manipulation techniques on the centre front panel, along side adding some embroidery badges. I can’t get to the wholesalers for a couple of weeks, so decided to raid my fabric stash and came up with a sequin and black leopard print stretch combo.
I was slightly nervous about using my overlocker on the sequins, so I tried some scrap pieces first and it copes with it quite well. I used the sequin for the front panel only and the sleeves and back panel from the leopard stretch. I would recommend getting a light to medium weight sweat shirt fabric, as they also state on the pattern cover. I own a few shop bought tops with the front panel in a contrasting fabric. It compares to a room decoration, having a feature wall. I think if you are making something for yourself you should try to make it unique, your making the effort after all. Why not make it a statement garment. You can get a sweat shirt in the shops cheaply after all. People will be asking you where you got it and it’s always a good feeling when you can say, you made it yourself.
The pattern also gives you the option to make a short sleeve version. I think you would use a very lightweight jersey for this. When I make this again I will use a slightly lighter jersey.
The paper pattern and instructions.
The pattern tissue paper is thin and the text on it is faded, so much so it is difficult to read which is the back panel and which is front. Thicker or thinner paper, which is best? Thinner means less storage, thicker means lasts longer and better quality, it also means a more expensive pattern, which do you prefer?
There is a A5 booklet included and this is very detailed, easy to understand and follow. The envelope is thin, but as the pattern is thin, it is suitable to put your pattern back inside. The graphics on the envelope are modern and simple, this gives a great indie (independent sewing manufacturer) branding. Patterns like Butterick and Simplicity can look so old-fashioned in comparison.
I checked the measurement, as I do with all pattern makes and I came up a size bigger. However when I made it up, it did feel like I could go back down a size, which always makes you feel better, right? Well now I am in my 40’s it does make me feel better sadly.
The booklet has lots of useful information; pattern details, preparation and sewing knits advice, I quite enjoyed reading it actually.
It does state that you can overlock the top together, I used the sewing machine and then overlocker the seams. The overlocker didn’t like the thickness when attaching the waistband, cuffs and neckband, but still did the job. When using another pattern it has included the over locking as a stage, it doesn’t in this pattern. As a result the neckline drawing doesn’t look like how you make it, I’m not sure how you can illustrate a raw edge? It looks like the seam is turned in, when you actually have to attach and then overlock. The neckband is also tricky, I would advice attaching the hem band first to get confidence and then the neck. The neckband is narrow so harder to sew. Is does look nice when finished so I wouldn’t widen it. They include helpful tips to support this, which definitely helped me and will repeat in future makes. The neckline sits nicely too, it’s not too high.
The making is so simple, attaching the arms, side seams, neck, cuff and waistband. once you have done one, each time will only get quicker and easier. I will definitely have a lot of these in my wardrobe in next to no time.
It states that it is for a beginner and I would agree with this, as I am a stretch beginner and it gave me confidence. I used my sewing machine stretch stitch and this made it take longer, as it’s a small zig zag. I also used a twin needle to finish the neckline. My machine advises not to use a walking foot when sewing the stretch stitch, so I didn’t. I might try it next time as there were points when I had to ease the fabric under the foot. Obviously using the sequin fabric made it more of a challenge, so I look forward to making one with a basic sweat shirt fabric.
I would highly recommend Grainline Studio patterns and the linden sweatshirt for a stretch beginner. I will definitely be stocking these on my site very soon.
The top is so comfortable to wear. The sizing is more realistic, so I will make it in a smaller size next time.