Pattern review: Papercut Kochi Kimono
This pattern company has to be my all time favourite. I have a few:
Papercutpatterns: From the packaging, the graphics, instructions, styles, sizing and shapes. Everything about them is spot on, so much so that I wish they would make more styles. This Kimono will be the first pattern I sell on my website. I am a small company and want to test my idea slowly. Each pattern I sell, I will make and wear.I will include sewing tips linked to each make and links to suitable fabrics, fastenings and tools that will make the make easier. I don’t want to sell anything I don’t make, wear and enjoy sewing. I don’t want to stock everything and anything sewing, I want my knowledge and experience to help others enjoy sewing more. It would also be great for people to share their makes here, so we can see real people wearing these products.
Cutting out the fabric: I have made this kimono before, the first time I used a Liberty cotton, it’s more for a summer evening wear. This time I wanted to make the denim version with the pockets and ties.
You need to inter-line the neckband, the tops of the pockets, hemlines on the sleeves and front and back panels. I used iron on interlining. This is quick and easy to attach, just make sure you have a hot iron. I use a heat press, if I use an iron, I press with pattern paper, or a teflon sheet on top to protect my iron. A tea towel will also work just as well. Also when you press down, do not move the iron around, just press down, count 5 seconds, then lift and press again. Repeat this, avoiding moving the iron when it is touching the fabric, this will stop the fabric moving, prevent any stretching and misshapen panels.
I cut my kimono out slightly longer, but soon realised that I didn’t lengthen the neck and, so had to cut off my extension. Maybe next time doh! if you want to lengthen, unlike me remember to lengthen the neck-band too.
Making: You start by over locking all the seams. I had to re-thread my overlocker. I can’t find my tweezers, so this was a little bit more difficult than usual. It worked first time so that’s always a result. I have 3 over-lockers, (as I teach sewing, not because I am extra) so need to get the other one threaded, so I don’t keep having to change the colour. Threading tip: Thread one thread at a time, cut one thread near to the spool. Tie this to your new colour, then slowly pull through. it may not go through the last needle, but you may be lucky and the more you practice this, the easier it gets. I find I have to take threading really slowly, I can’t be rushed and always follow the diagram literally, on the inside of the machine. If it starts getting frustrating, take a coffee break, I promise when you return it usually works first time.
Pockets and ties:
You then make the pockets and ties. Both things I have taught in the past, so enjoyed doing them for myself. The ties they suggest using a safety-pin, I don’t like using these as they always open half way. I use a loop turner instead. The fabric is a medium denim, you couldn’t pull it through if it was any thicker. One didn’t work, so I had to cut another, but the other 3 worked first time, so that was a relief. Sometimes things take a little practice and patience.
Marking the pockets: When marking the position of the pockets I pinned through the pattern on the 4 pocket corners, then using a chalk pencil mark small dots onto the fabric. Once marked I positioned my pocket matching the dots, making this accurate and easier.
I top stitched and created a small triangle as suggested on the pattern, to reinforce the top pocket edge. One of my triangles was upside down. I actually liked how this looks, so I left it. Some accidents can become features. The tie ends need to be tucked in and top stitched.
Next was to attach the ties to the side seams. Finish the hem of the sleeves, by turning over twice and top stitching. You then need to sew the shoulders together, then attaching the sleeves and the under arms, this is the tricky bit. Once the corner is snipped it sits much better. If you have a dress stand, this is a good time to have a look at it and check it looks ok. if you don’t snip the under arm, it looks like it’s caught and doesn’t sit well. Press the seams open. Hem the jacket before attaching the band.
I ran out of time here and had to collect my son from school. Hopefully he will allow me to continue, while he has his iPad hour later…..I didn’t manage to get back to this until the next day. My son had a play date on Saturday afternoon, this is perfect quiet sewing time. i rarely make things in one sitting, I have pockets of time and sometimes I have to wait for fastenings and trimmings to arrive. I want you to be able to buy everything you need before you start, so you don’t have the same problem as me. sometimes
The hardest part is to attach the front neck-band. Make sure you have interlined it, if you don’t it may stretch slightly making it harder to sew. You need to attach it to the wrong side first, this is so you are top stitching on the front. It is worth tacking at this stage, as it can stretch. I have done it without tacking and ended up unpicking and starting again. Unpicking takes longer than tacking I promise.
I love the over all look and it’s a really enjoyable sew. If you make it please share a picture on Instagram #itssewsimple
If you want to buy the pattern alone you can, or you can buy everything you need here. I will be happy to post you a box of goodies and look forward to seeing your final make. I am also available to answer any questions you have whilst making your kimono. Please email me and or call. I’m also happy to Skype, this way I can see what’s going on too.
You will need
Sewing time: approx 3 hours
Iron on interlining
Medium weight iron on interlining
2 metres of medium weight denim
Loop turner or safety-pin optional