My winter paper cut pattern wardrobe starts here.
Fabric choice
I have wanted to make this coat for some time and finally managed to get to the fabric wholesalers, get some suitable fabric and have a window of sewing time. i am on a mission to make my winter wardrobe and determined to not buy off the peg.
I have about 5 paper cut patterns on my to do list actually, so this is my first of many. I made several tailored jackets, but I haven’t made a coat like this before, so am excited by this make.
I love camouflage fabric and found this great thick wool and polyester mix blanket type material at the wholesalers. It’s green and brown and I wanted to pair it with a contrasting pink Liberty fabric. I always teach at the Knitting and stitching show, so put lining on my shopping list. There are two great stands at the show; sew box and fabric galore.
As I cannot sell Liberty fabrics, I have sourced some beautiful floral printed cotton viscose lining, for the coat sewing kit
They both sell unique Liberty cottons. I love getting ones that have either just come out, or an old vintage favourite. I managed to spot this bright pink cotton called Land of dreams and fell in love straight away and thought it a great contrast from the dull brown and green wool. You might say, why put something so special inside that no one can see, well I can and it’s great to have something no one else will have.
https://www.fabricsgalore.co.uk/collections/liberty-fabric/products/land-of-dreams-liberty-art-fabric
https://www.fabricsgalore.co.uk/collections/liberty-fabric/products/land-of-dreams-liberty-art-fabric
The coat would also look great in a black jacquard, a bright heavy weight silk for evening, or even a thick denim for spring to summer.
Pattern cutting
I don’t always have enough time to work on something from start to finish, so my first aim was to cut, the somewhat unusual shaped pattern pieces out. At this point I realised there are no patterns for the interlining, so I made my own. You don’t need to do this, I just know I will make it again, so next time will be quicker.I use dot and cross paper to do this.
Cutting out
My next aim was to cut the coat and lining fabric pieces out. This is the point when I dream about having my own custom made cutting table. For now the hall floor will do. It did take a lot of fabric and stretching. i tend to use a mix of pattern weights and pins.
Making
Then when I had a day to myself I started making. I started at 11 and didn’t stop till 3pm. This is only because I had to go to pick up my son from school, I would have continued till it was finished otherwise. I just didn’t want to stop. It was so quick and easy to make. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The coat has no fastenings, so the most technical parts were the pockets and hem. it really does look harder than it is.
I added all the interlining sections first, then started to sew the top and bottom front sections together at the pockets as instructed. The front shapes look so unusual, but all makes sense more when sewn together.
Each stage was so simple. The sleeves are supposed to be cropped, but I think when (not if) I make it again, I will lengthen them. The collar neckline was easy to sew, the hardest part being the under stitching, only because my fabric was quite thick. I sewed the lining pieces together and then sewed them to the coat fabric down the centre front, leaving an opening at the side seam. it is important to check that your front hems match and not different lengths. The sleeves lining and the lining opening needed to be hand sewn at the end. I am actually glad I didn’t rush the end, as hand sewing is not good in a rush.
Results
I am sew pleased with the result. The front pockets look so technical, when actually they are so simple.
When I make again I am considering adding a big feature button just above the pocket and extending the sleeves. I want to make the next one in a heavy weight denim and maybe even a black fabric for evening wear. the denim one I think I will customise with embroidery badges.
I would highly recommend this to a beginner, it would be a great for a first time coat maker. I love all the paper cut patterns, I have another 3 on my to do list; jeans, a top and blouse. I am doing the same coat again with a friend next week as a sew along, teacher her as we sew. if you are interested in the fabric and or the pattern, let me know and I can tell you my prices, as I have lots in stock.
